For many people, luxury watches are synonymous with “Swiss Made.” That’s more than understandable. For over 100 years, the Alpine republic has held a kind of monopoly when it comes to high-quality timepieces. Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breitling, Omega – the list of illustrious names goes on and on. But as dominant as the Swiss watch industry may seem, the rest of the world also has a number of top-class watch brands to offer. That’s why we’re taking you on a quick trip around the world today. We’ve selected six countries and the watch brands based there that are second to none, not even the big Swiss names.
Italy: Between Navy and Fashion
Let’s start in the south in Bella Italia. There’s no shortage of luxury brands here. Although Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Prada, and Versace are more at home in the fashion business, they’ve increasingly started to produce their own watches in recent years. Bvlgari is just one Italian success story. The brand has developed into a true watch manufacturer, and can look back on collaborations with design icon Gérald Genta. The fact that Bvlgari is serious about the watch business is demonstrated by the fact that the company has been one of the record holders in the ongoing competition for the thinnest watches for years.
Panerai is another big player from Italy. Before the brand became a symbol of Italian machismo thanks to celebrities such as Sylvester Stallone, the company had exclusively been supplying the Italian Navy with watches since the 1920s. The Luminor and Radiomir are now considered iconic thanks to their oversized, cushion-shaped cases. They are a good choice for anyone looking for a watch with great wrist presence. Incidentally, our author Donato Andrioli has summarized the 5 best Italian watch brands for you in his article.
France: Haute Couture and Haute Horlogerie
With Cartier, France has one of the biggest names in haute horlogerie. The brand is responsible for classics such as the Santos, the Tank, the Pasha, and the Crash. Cartier also almost single-handedly paved the way for the wristwatch at the beginning of the 20th century. France additionally has a range of comparatively young watch brands to offer. One example is Bell & Ross, which has made a name for itself with functional, hard-wearing tool watches. The up-and-coming microbrand Baltic, on the other hand, impresses with high-quality dress watches in a retro design. Yema, which attracted attention in the 1950s and 60s with diving watches and racing chronographs, has also recently celebrated a comeback. You can find more information on these brands in Tim’s article ”Three French watch brands you should know”
United Kingdom: Bremont Calling
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Great Britain was still one of the top watchmaking nations, only to then fall quickly behind. However, watchmaking has been making a comeback on the island for a good 25 years. Brands such as Bremont, Christopher Ward, and Farer have gained a loyal fan base within a very short space of time thanks to their unique designs, excellent workmanship, and moderate prices. Everything is on offer – from classic dress watches to pilot’s and diver’s watches, all the way to watches with a world time function or minute repeater.
Japan: The Birth Of the Quartz Watch
We’re now heading out of Europe, eastward-bound for Japan. The Japanese watch industry has long had to contend with the stigma of having flooded the market with cheap quartz watches back in the day. And indeed, it was the Seiko brand that launched the world’s first quartz wristwatch, triggering the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 80s that was so traumatic for the Swiss watch industry. By now, however, word should have gotten around that manufacturers such as Seiko, Orient, and Citizen/Miyota are serious producers of high-quality watches. Unlike many Swiss brands, these companies are genuine in-house watchmakers that design and manufacture all the components of their timepieces themselves. Seiko in particular has repeatedly presented itself as an innovator, developing completely new technologies such as the Spring Drive caliber, which combines the best of mechanical and quartz movements. In addition to the major brands, Japan also has a whole range of interesting microbrands and independent watchmakers to offer. Some examples include Minase, Hajime Asaoka, or Masahiro Kikuno. We’ve compiled an overview of the art of Japanese watchmaking for you here.
USA: American Spirit At Heart
The USA once had a thriving watch industry. Brands such as Waltham, Hamilton, Ball Watches, and Bulova were flagships of American watchmaking until the middle of the 20th century. Today, these brands either no longer exist, or have long since emigrated to Switzerland. However, similar to the UK, a revival of watchmaking can also be seen in the land of opportunity. In addition to the long-established Timex brand, more and more smaller manufacturers such as Autodromo, J.N. Shapiro, Shinola, and the Weiss Watch Company are making a name for themselves. We also have a top 5 of the best watch brands from the States for you here.
Made In Germany
Let’s return to Central Europe to close, and make our way to Germany. There has also been a flourishing watch industry here for a good 200 years. One of the major watchmaking centers is the Black Forest region, which once became famous for its cuckoo clocks, and is now home to brands such as Junghans, Stowa, and Laco. The small Saxon town of Glashütte is well-known for its watchmaking. The former miner settlement was transformed into a center of upmarket watchmaking by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1845. Today, it is home to such illustrious names as A. Lange & Söhne, Glashütte Original, and NOMOS Glashütte. Want to find out more? Then be sure to check out our article on the top German watch manufacturers.
